HÄN / A UNISEX CONCEPT BY MARIO CADENAS

HÄN is a unisex brand concept that I created as part of my masters studies. The word “Hän” is a pronoun in the Finnish language that is used to describe a person (man or woman). It is used in place of “he” or “she”. Only through the context of conversation is the gender of the person in topic revealed. Needless to say I found the word fitting for the brand.

The concept was in part conceived by my longstanding belief that society’s dictated idea of ‘masculinity’ and ‘femininity’ strongly limits our choices and creativity, not just sartorially but generally.

In terms of fashion, I consider masculinity to have tough, simple, reserved, and tailored attributes, while femininity has softer, ornate, adventurous, and intricate qualities. Although my perception could be subliminally based on my overexposure to society’s fascist and arbitrary generalization of masculinity and femininity, it is a blatant fact that everyone has their way of distinguishing the two. However, I don’t think that there should be any distinction. Clothes should expand our options not limit them!

The pieces in the collection have been authenticated by applying a formula which was designed specifically for this concept. Using my perception of masculine and feminine qualities, I combined their elements, and applied them to rudimentary shapes. The goal was to make the garments versatile enough to give the customer the unrestricted freedom to mix and match the pieces for vast combination choices. I hope to blur the dividing line between genders with the principle that clothes do not define us but we define them. Based on combination choices, the outcome of a look could be androgynous, masculine, feminine; virtually anything that the wearer wants it to be. I wanted to rid my designs of masculine and feminine labels so that the only thing withstanding is regal elegance. An elegance that underlines the confident and sophisticated spirit of the brand with a rock ‘n’ roll sensibility.

Check out the HÄN autumn/winter digital collection book and lookbook below.

ITEM: 3001 /SLIM FIT LEATHER PANTS
BLACK / SHELL: 100% LAMB LEATHER / LINING: 50% POLYESTER, 50% VISCOSE / DRY CLEAN ONLY / MADE IN INDIA / XS – S – M – L – XL

ITEM: 2003 /CHAMELEON SWEATER (CROP TOP VIEW)
BLACK / 100% MOHAIR / DRY CLEAN ONLY / MADE IN PORTUGAL / XS – S – M – L – XL

ITEM: 2003 /CHAMELEON SWEATER (STANDARD VIEW)

ITEM: 2003 /CHAMELEON SWEATER (2-WAY MINI DRESS VIEW)

ITEM: 2007 /SLEEVELESS COWL NECK TOP

MATTE BLACK / 100% POLYESTER – COATED / 40°, HAND WASH, NO BLEACH, NO IRON, LINE DRY / MADE IN ESTONIA / XS – S – M – L – XL

ITEM: 3002 / HIGH WAIST CONVERTIBLE LEGGINGS
(CONVERTS INTO A TURBAN) /
BLACK / 100 % COTTON JERSEY/ 40°, HAND WASH, NO BLEACH, LOW IRON / MADE IN FINLAND / XS – S – M – L – XL

ITEM: 1002 / UTILITY CAPE WITH INNER SLEEVES AND POCKETS /
BLACK / SHELL: 100% WOOL / LINING: 100% SILK / DRY CLEAN ONLY / MADE IN FINLAND / XS – S – M – L – XL

ITEM: 1001 / MODIFIABLE “THREE LOOK” PONCHO (COWL NECK VIEW) /
BLACK / 100 % WOOL / DRY CLEAN ONLY / MADE IN FINLAND / ONE SIZE FITS ALL

ITEM: 1001 / MODIFIABLE “THREE LOOK” PONCHO (HOOD VIEW) /

ITEM: 1001 / MODIFIABLE “THREE LOOK” PONCHO (SCARF WRAP VIEW) /

CHRISTIAN LACROIX FOR SCHIAPARELLI COUTURE FALL/WINTER 2013-14

This year Schiaparelli has invited none other than the iconic Christian Lacroix to design a collection for the legendary house. I think the aesthetic of monsieur Lacroix is perfect for this collaboration which clearly shows in the work that is true to the Schiaparelli style and heritage. Check it out!

STÉPHANE ROLLAND COUTURE FALL/WINTER 2013-14

Another heavy hitter for me is STÉPHANE ROLLAND. Like Elie Saab, He never disappoints. Each collection is better than the last or at the very least equally strong. Always anticipated, always a pleasure!

ULYANA SERGEENKO COUTURE FALL/WINTER 2013-14

I really admire Ulyana Sergeenko. Besides being a beautiful woman, she is also very talented. I love her work because it is such a stylish representation and extension of her personal style and heritage. It’s typically Russian without being cliché.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER COUTURE FALL/WINTER 2013-14

ELIE SAAB COUTURE FALL/WINTER 2013-14

I absolutely adore Elie Saab. I anticipate his shows during every couture season. He never disappoints. Each collection is better than the last or at the very least equally strong.

FASHIONABLY TACKY

I can’t help but notice a couple “Brands” that stick out like sore thumbs during every couture season due to their total lack of refinement and elegance on many levels. I am sympathetic to the fact that producing a Couture collection and presentation is costly; however I strongly believe that you can make any affair elegant despite the budget. All it requires is ingenuity and a strong sense of style.

Whether it’s due to outdated designs, inconsistency in style, harsh transition between looks, totally wrong line-up, poor setting, venue selection, second-rate models, or all of the above, below are two brands that always seem to miss the mark.

ON AURA TOUT VU and ERIC TIBUSCH undoubtedly have a lot of improvement to do in all of these areas  . Still it’s not to say that I am unable to pluck a few gems (for various reasons) from the horrid bunch. Despite my stern assessment, I must say that I do enjoy the fun and unconventional quality of ON AURA TOUT VU and some of ERIC TIBUSCH’s interesting cuts and styling choices.

Below are images of some of the best pieces from ON AURA TOUT VU’s Fall/Winter 2013 Couture show in Paris.

Below are images of some of the best pieces from ERIC TIBUSCH’s Fall/Winter 2013 Couture show in Paris.

CHANEL COUTURE FALL/WINTER 2013-14

Although I am a huge fan of the Chanel brand, I must admit that I am growing tired and bored with Karl Lagerfeld’s take on the Chanel woman. In recent years, every time the house presents a new collection, I feel as though it’s always too familiar. I understand that a brand must be consistent with their look and aesthetic, however, I feel that there is a total lack of surprising elements. The colors, fabrics, cuts, and silhouettes of the garments seem to be recycled and edited season after season after season after season. Even the styling is monotonous with all the thigh high boots in every collection.

Despite my feelings, below are images of some of the best pieces from CHANEL’s Fall/Winter 2013 Couture show in Paris.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI COUTURE FALL/WINTER 2013-14

Below are images of some of my favorite pieces from GIAMBATTISTA VALLI’s Fall/Winter 2013 Couture show in Paris.

ALEXIS MABILLE COUTURE FALL/WINTER 2013-14

Below are images of some of my favorite pieces from ALEXIS MABILLE’s Fall/Winter 2013 Couture show in Paris.